Cordless Drill Kits Buying Guide (2027)

18V and 20V MAX describe the same battery class: 20V MAX is the no-load voltage, 18V the nominal working voltage. Do not cross-shop them as different tiers. True 12V drills are lighter and genuinely useful for cabinet and overhead work, but give up roughly half the torque. For a first and possibly only drill, 18V/20V is the correct default.

Brushed motors are cheaper and proven; brushless motors convert more battery into work, run cooler, and never need brush replacement. The runtime difference is typically 30 to 50 percent per amp-hour, which is why brushless drills ship with smaller batteries yet outwork brushed rivals. Buy brushed to minimize entry cost, brushless to minimize cost per year of ownership.

Chuck size (1/2 in vs 3/8 in) sets the maximum bit shank; 1/2 in is the versatile choice. Clutch settings (16+1, 20+1, 24+1) set driving finesse; more detents mean finer control. Torque is quoted as UWO by DeWalt and inch-pounds by everyone else; compare within one unit only. Speed ranges like 0-450 / 0-1,500 RPM tell you low gear is for driving and high gear for drilling.

Buy the budget brushed kit (DeWalt DCD771C2 class) if you drill monthly and want maximum kit for minimum cost; avoid it if you drill weekly, where brushless efficiency pays back fast. Buy the brushless mid-tier (Milwaukee 2801-20 class) if this is your daily driver and platform depth matters; avoid it if you will only hang pictures. Buy the torque leader (Makita XFD13 class) if you drive structural fasteners or run hole saws; avoid it if you have small hands or work overhead, where a compact 12V drill is the honest answer.